What to Cook Right NowMikhail
Good morning. I used to feel guilty about how, some time at the top or middle of most weeks, I’d have a loaf of fancy artisanal bread going stale on the counter, left over from a run to this cool bakery or that one on Saturday mornings. Maybe it happens to you, too, sometimes? How often can you make bread crumbs before you’re taking them to work like extra zucchini in August?
Comes now a fantastic recipe for French onion panade (above) from Samin Nosrat, along with a terrific column in The Times all about making it, to remove all shame from your purchase and failure to use. Indeed, Samin writes, you may find yourself buying good bread with the express purpose of letting it go stale just so you can make this meal: a kind of French onion soup that’s more onion and bread and cheese than soup, though there’s an enormous amount of stock in it, to rehydrate the stale slices that form its base.
Here’s hoping you can make that dish this week. But not only that dish!
Check out Melissa Clark’s new recipe for a chicken sheet-pan dinner with sweet potatoes, peppers and sage. It’s amazing: velvety sweet potatoes next to soft and caramelized bell peppers next to crisp roasted chicken thighs and wafts of pungent sage. Too rich? Melissa doesn’t mess around: thin slices of quick-pickled red onion provide a zip at the end, above the dense deliciousness. Get to that meal soon.
Look, too, at Samin’s recipe for tofu on rice and quinoa. And Florence Fabricant’s recipe for chicken tagine with olives and preserved lemons. You could cook the fettuccine Alfredo they used to serve at Elaine’s, on the Upper East Side. And you could definitely make some cowboy cookies for dessert, on a weeknight, because you are a home cook now and that is what home cooks do. (What a triumph it is, seriously, to bake on a weeknight. Do so in your varsity jacket.)